A diamond is one of those stones everyone dreams about. Nothing compares to its brilliance, purity, hardness, and timelessness. But when it comes to choosing your own gem, things can get confusing: mysterious D–Z grades, VS1 and SI2 marks, charts and proportions — it all feels too technical. This guide will put everything in order and show you that learning about diamonds can actually be quick and enjoyable.
The “4Cs” — Your Shortcut to Understanding Diamonds
Every diamond is judged by four main qualities, known as the 4Cs: Cut, Color, Clarity, and Carat.
Cut — the Key to Brilliance
A diamond’s sparkle depends above all on its cut. The more precise the craftsmanship, the more light flows through the stone and returns to your eye as that unmistakable “wow” effect.
Because it’s the hardest mineral on Earth, a diamond can be cut with more facets than any other gem. The classic round brilliant cut, for example, has 57 facets — a clever optical design that captures light and scatters it into hundreds of flashes.
Color — From D to Z
Diamonds are graded on a scale of 23 color levels, from D to Z. Stones in the D–F range are completely colorless and the most valuable. As the letters move closer to Z, the stone picks up warmer, yellowish tones.
But that doesn’t mean they’re less attractive: paired with yellow gold or vintage-inspired jewelry, a subtle tint can actually add depth and character.
There’s also a category called Fancy diamonds, which includes colors from pink to black. Technically, they’re valued less than colorless diamonds, but their bold look makes them a favorite among modern and avant-garde jewelry designers.
Clarity — the Tiny World Inside
Clarity shows how free a diamond is from natural inclusions. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) uses these categories:
- FL/IF (Flawless / Internally Flawless) — no visible inclusions even under 10x magnification. Extremely rare and the most expensive.
- VVS1 — VVS2 (Very Very Slightly Included) — microscopic inclusions, almost impossible to see even with a loupe.
- VS1 — VS2 (Very Slightly Included) — very small inclusions invisible to the naked eye. A perfect balance of beauty and value.
- SI1 — SI2 (Slightly Included) — minor inclusions, rarely noticeable without magnification, especially in a well-cut stone.
- I1 — I3 (Included) — inclusions visible right away, the stone may look less transparent.
Tip from Orxata: for everyday jewelry, VS to SI1 is the sweet spot. These stones look flawless to the eye but allow you to choose a larger size without paying a premium for absolute perfection.
Carat — Size Matters, But It’s Not Everything
Carat measures weight: 1 carat equals 0.2 grams. It’s tempting to think that bigger is always better, but that’s not the case. A large stone with a mediocre cut can look flat and dull, while a smaller, well-cut diamond can sparkle so brightly it seems larger than it is.
Tip: if you’re working within a budget, go for a slightly lighter stone with an excellent cut. It will outshine — and often outclass — a heavier diamond with poor proportions.
A Few Simple Tips for Your First Diamond
- Trust the sparkle: if it doesn’t shine as expected, the cut is almost always the reason.
- Check it in daylight: this is the best way to see its true color and clarity.
- Balance over size: a smaller, well-cut diamond can look more striking and valuable than a bigger one.
- Ask for certification: reliable jewelers provide documents from GIA or IGI for an additional fee, clearly stating all characteristics.
What About Lab-Grown Diamonds?
Lab-grown diamonds are becoming increasingly popular. They share the same physical, chemical, and optical properties as natural diamonds, and even under a microscope they’re almost indistinguishable. They’re usually more affordable, though their resale value tends to drop faster than that of natural gemstones. Still, they’re a fantastic option if you want brilliance without treating your jewelry as an investment
Orxata Transforming Jewelry catalog offers jewelry where engineering meets precious sparkle. Whether you prefer a natural or lab-grown gemstone — including diamonds — just let us know. We will create a piece of jewelry that tells your story, instead of just being a piece of jewelry.
